A Practical Guide to Visiting the Blue City

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If you are on social media, you’ve likely seen pictures of an exotic city adorned in various shades of blue. With its winding cobblestone roads, hand-painted doors, and cave-like buildings, Chefchaouen (pronunciation) in many ways resembles the Greek island of Santorini. The difference is this small city in northwestern Morocco remains relatively untouched to the outside world, although it has gained popularity more recently after earning its recognition as the “Blue City” on Instagram.

I will never forget the first time I saw photos of Chefchaouen. I admittedly knew nothing about this destination but couldn’t wait to explore. As I began my research, I was fascinated to learn the various theories about the genesis of its blue color. Some say that the Sephardi Jews, who fled to northwestern Morocco during the Spanish Inquisition, painted the city blue to symbolize the sky and feeling close to God. Other stories claim the color blue, like water, would repel mosquitos. More recent accounts attribute the cool blue tones to aesthetics and eliciting a sense of calm.

Regardless of the city’s blue origin, I knew that Chefchaouen was worth a visit. Here are my tips when planning a trip to the Blue City of Morocco:

Consider a Mini-Road Trip

Chefchaouen is located in northwest Morocco, nestled high in the Rif mountains. Most international travelers will enter the country through Casablanca. If you are planning to spend time in Fes (home of the world’s largest medina), the most efficient option is to fly from Casablanca to Fes and make your way to the Blue City from there. Chefchaouen is approximately a 3.5 hour drive from Fes.

In our case, we rented a car and drove directly from Casablanca to Chefchaouen. Although a bit of a hike (5 hours to be exact), our road trip gave us the opportunity to tour the countryside – including the small Berber villages – and observe the rolling hills gradually transition into mountains. We did encounter some crazy drivers during our first hour from Casablanca to Rabat. We also approached a police check point which was a bit unnerving since we didn’t know what to expect. Despite these events the rest of the drive was quite peaceful.

Below are a few options to consider when getting to Chefchaouen, assuming Casablanca as home base:

• Via Tangier: Fly (1 hour) to Tangier. From Tangier, Chefchaouen is a 2 hour 15 minute drive.
• Via Fes: Drive (3 hours) or fly (1 hour) to Fes. From Fes, Chefchaouen is a 3.5 hour drive.
• Direct: Drive to Chefchaouen (5 hours) *Note: you can fly to Chefchaouen’s nearest airport (Tetouan – TTU) but direct flights are limited (check Royal Air Maroc’s website). Tetouan is approximately a 90 minute drive to Chefchaouen.

Although Chefchaouen isn’t the easiest place to get to, the best advice is to start with the other destinations you plan to cover and narrow down your options from there. It all depends on the number of days in your itinerary and other destinations you plan to cover during your trip. If you are traveling on a tighter budget, check out these options to get to the Blue City via bus.

Stay at a Riad

If you plan to stay overnight in Chefchaouen, consider a traditional Moroccan riad (a large house with a central garden courtyard). It’s like at a boutique hotel, but better! There are a handful of options for riads – just be sure to find one within the walls of the Medina (old town).

We chose to spend two nights at Lina Ryad and Spa. This intimate riad (17 suites total) is known for its fresh squeezed orange juice and prime location – just around the corner from one of the Blue City’s most photographed streets. Although tour guides offer day trips from Tangier and I’ve read that some will even drive to/from Fes, you can avoid the crowds and tour buses if you stay in Chefchaouen. We spent our early mornings wandering through the blue alleys of the Medina and it felt like we had the whole place to ourselves. Experiencing the sunset over the Rif mountains also makes the stay well worth it!

Get Lost in the Medina

The Blue Medina and its various souks (Arabic marketplaces) are filled with secret passages and narrow blue alleys waiting to be explored. Just don’t expect to rely on your phone for navigation – it’s likely you won’t have service! The good news is that the Medina is relatively small and you will eventually find your destination in a roundabout way. For peace of mind, you can carry a card with the name of  the lodge you are staying at for backup. Regardless, be prepared to get lost as it’s all part of the experience!

When visiting the souks, be sure to bring cash. We made more purchases here vs. Marrakesh since the items appeared to be more authentic. One of my favorites purchases was a hand painted photo of the Blue City, which we found inside of a small gallery.

Speaking of purchases, while there are far less solicitors in Chefchaouen than in Morocco’s larger cities – there are still scams to be aware of. For instance, we were approached by locals trying to sell us “kif” which is basically a marijuana cigarette. Apparently, the Rif Mountains are home to a number of marijuana plantations. However, make no mistake that marijuana is illegal in Morocco. In fact, if you are driving to/from Chefchaouen you may encounter one or more police check-points, as we did. We also learned that in some cases the dealer may be undercover or paid by the police for a tip-off. Bottom line – be smart!

That being said, Chefchaouen is also relatively safe to wander alone. For the most part, everyone keeps to themselves. We were pleasantly surprised by how freely the local children ran around the cobblestone streets and played without close supervision.

Book an Evening Spa Treatment

In contrast to the hustle and bustle of the well-known city of Marrakesh, Chefchaouen is quiet. The city doesn’t have much night life and many places do not serve alcohol. There are exceptions, such as Bar Oum Rabie, which was a fun place to interact with locals. It was reminiscent of an intimate college dive bar, which is not at all what we were expecting, but certainly a highlight! Chefchaouen’s relaxed atmosphere makes evenings a great time to book a pampering spa or hammam experience. We booked traditional Moroccan Hammam treatments at Lina Ryad and Spa, which were fabulous.

If you are looking to dine out, here are a few recommendations within the Medina (all vegetarian-friendly):

• Café Clock
• Restaurant Morisco
• Aladdin Restaurant (also has great views of the Medina)

Get Your Camera Ready!

Whether you are professional photographer or looking for the next photo to share on Instagram, Chefchaouen will not disappoint. Inside the walls of the Medina, every winding corner is more picturesque than the next. Each is adorned in various shades of blue and complemented by an occasional white-washed building.

If you are planning to capture photos, plan for early morning or late afternoon for the best lighting and when the streets are not as busy. But enough talking, I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves.

If you are reading this, I hope that you get the opportunity to experience the Blue City firsthand. Please comment below with any thoughts, questions or feedback!

Note: The Beyond Borders Collective is not paid to endorse the venues referenced within this blog; commentary is based solely off of our own personal travel research and experiences.